Showing posts with label Ben Greeno. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ben Greeno. Show all posts

Saturday, 8 May 2010

Restaurant Review: Nuno Mendes at Viajante in Bethnal Green

The problem with Viajante is that it wants to play with the restaurant gods and is priced on that basis - 6 courses for £60, 9 courses for £65 or 12 courses for £85.  But for those kind of prices you could go to Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley.

(crostini de romesco and gordal olives, almonds and Jerez)

So let's start with the "soft" side of the meal because that was their biggest failure. Marcus Wareing, Gordon Ramsay (here), Marcus McGuiness or any of their ilk who do similar "big" tasting menus like Viajante is offering guarantee good service.  Napkins magically return to your lap.  Chairs migrate in and out of the table in time with your movements and plates appear and disappear without you thinking about it.

Now I really really don't care about good service.  For me the best (cheap) meals come where it is warfare with the waiters.  You sit unloved and ignored in the corner.  But then the food.  The juxtaposition between the brilliance of the food and the obnoxious service (and cheap prices) make those kind of meals something even more special (see Antpeliler here).  Viajante wants to be more than that though.  It wants to be haute Bethnal Green cuisine but it is striving to be so with shonky so so service.  What is even more strange about this is when Nuno Mendes was at The Loft he oversaw an experience that was both fantastic on the food front but also had pleasant and paced service (here).

Saturday, 6 March 2010

Restaurant Review: Ben Greeno at (Nuno Mendes') The Loft

This review starts by asking a question no one has bothered asking yet but is a fairly fundamental one.  Why read my reviews?  Well, the answer starts out simple but rambles a bit.

I have no financial interest in anything I review.  I blog because I enjoy it.  I have never been offered, accepted or asked for something free. I have no desire to set up an Underground Restaurant or a Supper Club because I have no desire to ever be judged by people such as me.  I have nothing to parcel, nothing to market, nothing I am personally invested in and no-one I feel compelled to talk up.  This blog is not and will not be monetised.  My industry and future is as far separated from the world of food as it is possible to be.